Greece Pilgrimage
Below is the article I wrote for St Nicolas Church Magazine.
Pilgrimage in the Footsteps of St Paul
IN October a party of 31, mainly from St Nicolas, toured the Greek mainland visiting many of the places that St Paul went to on his second missionary tour. Although for practical reasons it was not possible to follow Paul’s route exactly. Acts 16:6 to Acts 18:18 covers the places visited.
It has been my good fortune to go on all of the four pilgrimages organised by Jenny Griffiths and David Cook (1994: Holy Land; 1996: Jordan and Israel; 1998: Turkey; 2001: Greece). Over the years I have seen the sites and walked in the footsteps of Jesus and St Paul. Each trip has both taught me much and revealed gaps in my knowledge and understanding.
Overleaf you find our itinerary interspersed with the relevant bible references and comments kindly provided by David Cook. I hope these will help you share our trip and provide background to David’s talks over the coming weeks. Further pictures of this and the previous pilgrimages and links can be found on my website: www.newbury.net/robert.willis.
In the years Before Christ (BC) the prophets foretold the coming of the Messiah in a world of wars and idol worship. In the years after Christ (AD) and his teaching, death and resurrection, it was, and still is, a world of wars and disbelief, but with the addition of division in the church. All these centuries later, I pray I may be forgiven for my occasional sense of despair. Just how many today are heeding the Golden Commandants of loving God and neighbour?
Turkey is a no nonsense secular country. Although there are mosques and churches they are akin to clubs, or else they are relegated to the status of museums and tourist attractions. The Holy Land is an unhappy mixture of the secular and different faiths where Christ is either embedded in the Trinity of God the Father, God the Son and God the Holy Spirit, accredited as a prophet or ignored.
I found in Greece a feeling of Christ amongst us where the Golden Commandants govern lives in a very human, even naïve, way. Given the roots in ancient mythology and philosophy, conversion to Christianity by St Paul, old and recent wars, invasions and occupations, I suppose I should not have found this the surprise I did.
This sense of well being started on Day 2, whilst visiting St Sophia in Thessaloniki and comparing its ambience with that of St Sophia in Istanbul – the difference between a living church and a dead museum.
Throughout the trip I found myself making other comparisons. Greece is in the Common Market: Britain is in the Common Market; Greece is in Europe: Britain is in Europe; and both are separated from the “mainland” European Union dream by sea. This is something else I had to get my head around. At a boringly practical level I found myself doing my currency conversions via the Euro price so conveniently printed alongside the Drachma price on menus, etc—so much easier than accounting for all those noughts.
With a bit of lateral thinking, this led me to pondering the parallelism of comparing monetary transactions with Golden Commandments transactions, if I can put it like that. The former helps us feed the body: knowing what a beer and a toasted sandwich costs in familiar money. The latter helps us feed the mind bringing us closer to the Creator of all and to all that has been, for better or worse, created.
I had seen amphitheatres, archaeological excavations, remains of pagan temples and so on during the other pilgrimages, and I must admit that they are not a big turn-on. One pile of old stones looks very similar to another, as they say. And that is where a good guide comes in. So often in life, we look but don’t see. Our guide Johanna was excellent. It was not just that she knew her stuff. It was the way that communicating it was a two-way experience.
Maybe it was the heat, the aching feet or the Ouzo the night before, but Jo’s deliberations gave me a real feel for how Paul may have delivered the good news to the Greeks. Jo was speaking in English, her second language, to an assembly that contained a number of specialists. (David Cook’s knowledge base seems inexhaustible, and, together with Ian Park, Patrick Cogswell and others, stretched Jo’s extensive training at Tour Guide School to the limit!) Those like me, could only stand back and listen in amazement as they deciphered and interpreted the ancient Greek lettering and sculpture for our benefit, for example, the pattern of Greek E’s used to symbolise eternal life, and the stance of the statues with one foot in front of the other to express moving forward.
In his book “St. Paul in Greece”, Otto Meinardus paints many word pictures of Paul addressing and debating with the learned and learning thinkers of the time. The dialogue in the group was, I suspect, not that dissimilar.
On most evenings the group met for worship, bible reading, study, prayer and discussion. Although we were remote from news, the developing situation in Afghanistan and the Anthrax threats were never far from our thoughts. (At some hotels there was BBC World and CNN in English on the TV; otherwise, it was a matter of seeing the pictures with unreadable sub-titles and commentary in a foreign language.) The nearest we came to any sort of danger was the large cruise ship “hidden” in one of the harbours. It had been scheduled to cruise the coast of Turkey with a party of Americans.
So, safely back home, what now? How can we put what we have learnt about St Paul to use? Paul preached the resurrection of Jesus Christ and converted Jews and Gentiles to Christianity. Interestingly he did this only in the places that the Holy Spirit directed him. (Acts informs us that three distinct facts led to Paul’s mission in Europe: the Holy Spirit prevented him from declaring the message of Christ in Asia; that the Spirit of Jesus prevented him from entering Bithynia; and a vision directed Paul to Macedonia, i.e. the Greek mainland and not to be confused with the present day Republic of Macedonia.)
Where is the Holy Spirit now directing us? It seems to me that the Spirit has set us less of a challenge than he did Paul. We don’t need to travel vast distances or suffer much discomfort or the threat of physical imprisonment. There is plenty to be done here in West Berkshire. From the heart can we say that we are unceasingly obeying the Golden Commandments, loving God and neighbour, and preaching the Good News by example, in all we think, speak or say? Having been on the Pilgrimage I feel that I could do better.
Robert F. Willis
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Day 1: Sunday, 7th October Flew from London Gatwick to Greece Thessaloniki to spend three nights at the Sun Beach Hotel in Agia Triada. Day 2: Thessaloniki Visited the statute of Alexander the Great and the acropolis, churches of Agios Dimitrios and Agios Sophia, and the Archaeological Museum. Acts 17: 1-9 covers the arrival of Paul and Silas in Thessalonica in AD 49. A year later Paul wrote his first letter to the Thessalonians (the earliest NT document) and, shortly after, his second letter. These letters shed light on some of the joys and sorrows of Paul’s ministry, and the situation at Thessalonica. Day 3: Boat Trip to Mt Athos Boarded the MV St. Nicholas at Ouranoupoli for a sea view of some 20 monasteries on the Mt Athos peninsular from which women have been banned since 1060 by edict of Constantine Monomachos. Day 4: Thessaloniki to Kavala En route passed the ancient cities of Amphipolis and Apollonia seeing the marble lion commemorating Philip Of Macedon’s victory over the Athenians in the 4th Century BC. In Kavala (Neopolis in the New Testament) saw St Paul’s church and the House of Mehmet Ali. Stayed at Hotel Oceanis for three nights. Paul originally arrived here from Troas (Acts 16: 11), and, after leaving Philippi, came to Thessalonica via Amphipolis and Apollonia (Acts 17: 1). There were no Jewish synagogues in these cities which is perhaps why Paul did not stop to preach the gospel. Day 5: Philippi Saw archaeological site situated on the Via Egnatia where Paul was imprisioned, where he established a small church and from where his mission in Europe began. At the site of Lydia’s baptism an open air Eucharist was celebrated at the riverside altar. This was the first city where Paul preached on his second journey (Acts 16: 11-40). Lydia, the first convert to Christ, originally came from Thyatira (where, later, there was a church - see Revelation 2:18-20. Paul’s and Silas’ imprisonment in Philippi are also referred to in 1 Thessalonians 2:2 and probably 2 Corinthians 11:25. Paul returned to Philippi (Acts 20:6) at the end of his journey before sailing to Troas (AD 51). Paul wrote his “Letter to the Philippians” some years later and from prison (either in Ephesus or Rome). This letter has always been seen as the most personal and tender of all Paul’s letters, and there is no doubt that from the outset the Philippian church care deeply for Paul (see also 2 Corinthians 8: 1-5, 11:9). Paul revisited Philippi twice more - in 57 and 58 AD (see 2 Corinthians 7:6-16 and Acts (20:3-4). Day 6: ThassosBoarded a ferry for the 90 minutes crossing for a tour of the south western part of the island visiting a nunnery, archaeological sites around Kinyra including those of two adjacent churches and the agora excavations near the harbour. Day 7: Kavala to Kalambaca via Berea En route visited the archaeological site/tomb museum at Vergina. Berea is where St Paul also preached. Stayed at Hotel Antoniadis overnight. Acts 17:10-15 tells of Paul’s visit to Berea and of the founding of a church. Day 8: Monasteries of Meteora and onward to Delphi Visited the monasteries of Megalo Meteora and Agios Stephanos. Travelled to Delphi seeing the Valley of Thessalia along the way. Stayed at Hotel King Inioxos one night. Day 9: Delphi to Athens Visited city of Delphi renowned for its soothsaying Oracle of ancient times. Also hillside site where offering were made in the Temple of Apollo and the legendary Oracle bathed in the Castalian Spring before predicting the future. Stayed at Hotel Stanley in Athens for three nights after touring the city including original Olympic site. Day 10: Athens Toured Athens including the Acropolis Museum, the Agora and the Acropolis itself. Saw the rock Mars Hill, where Paul began his teachings. Explored city; saw Anglican church. Acts 16:34 tells of Paul’s visit to Athens, his discussions with Athenian intellectuals and his preaching (AD 49). Day 11: Corinth Visited Corinth where St Paul ministered for two years and established a Christian community. Saw the Agora dominated by the columns of the Temple of Apollo and the Bema where Paul was accused. Stopped at the Corinth Canal. Visited Mycende, the theatre of Epidauros and Askepieton and Conchreae where one of the sights, the ruins of the ancient Greek church, can be seen at low tide. Acts 18:1-17 speaks of Paul’s first visit (AD 50-51). He wrote his “First Letter to the Corinthians” (AD 55) from Ephesus, and then revisited Corinth briefly (his “painful visit” - 2 Corinthians 2:1). He then wrote his “Second Letter to the Corinthians” and subsequently visited Corinth for three months in the winter of AD 57-58. Paul clearly wrote more than two letters to the Corinthians, and it may well be that 2 Corinthians is a compilation of these letters. Paul’s relationship with the church in Corinth is extremely fascinating: it demonstrates his great love for them, his frustration, his pain and his unalloyed joy. 2 Corinthians is his most vulnerable letter, and speaks much of the suffering he experienced. Day 12: Athens to London Heathrow From new airport passing new Olympic Stadium and road works for the 2004 games.
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Some Links |
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| Architecture in ancient Greece: | http://www.ancientgreece.com/html/art_frame.htm |
| St Paul | http://ebooks.whsmithonline.co.uk/htmldata/ency.asp?mainpage=HTTP://EBOOKS.WHSMITHONLINE.CO.UK/ENCYCLOPEDIA/41/M0012241.HTM |
| St Paul | http://www.norham.deanery.btinternet.co.uk/saints/paul.htm |
| St Barnabus | http://www.stbarnabasbeckenham.org.uk/stbarnh.htm |
| Kavala | http://www.vacation.net.gr/p/kavala.html |
| Thessaloniki | http://www.vacation.net.gr/p/thess_ab.html |
| Epistles to the Thessalonians | http://www.vacation.net.gr/p/thess.html |
| Delphi | http://www.vacation.net.gr/p/delphi.html |
| Thassos | http://www.vacation.net.gr/p/thassos.html |
| Athens | http://www.vacation.net.gr/p/athens.html |
| Corinth | http://www.vacation.net.gr/p/corincut.html |
| Greek Orthodoxcy | http://www.goarch.org/access/orthodoxy/ |
| Onlone Vdeoes | http://www.goarch.org/goa/departments/gotel/online_videos.html |
| Icon Gallery | http://www.goarch.org/access/resources/clipart/ |